Scents and Sensibility – A Nose Worth Millions and An Easter Recipe

I have heard of perfumier's noses being insured against loss of smell but this is the first time I have heard of a wine makers being valued for millions. Winemaker Iija Gort's nose is the most important asset he has in his profession so he sensibly decided that he had better insure it. It's insured for £3.8 million.

Mr Gort is the Dutch owner of Château de Garde in Bordeaux and his sense of smell is essential to guarantee the quality of his wines. His nose was insured by Lloyd's who created a special policy that covers him against losing the ability to smell. Mr Gort produces 80,000 bottles of the gold medal award-winning Château de la Garde a year and told The Mail that there was a :

"substantial" premium for his insurance, but insisted his nose was worth it. "I love wine, I love the smell and I love the taste."

Mr Gort had to undergo a barrage of medical tests on his nose before doctors decided that deciding his smelling ability was "far above usual".

There is however, one drawback to the policy. Rules dictate he cannot be a knife thrower's assistant, breathe fire or take part in a boxing match.

Apparently Mr Gort is not the first wine expert to insure himself against the loss of a sense - in 2003 the Somerfield supermarket chain insured its senior wine buyer's sense of taste and smell for £10 million.

The fashion for insuring celebrity body parts is believed to have begun in Hollywood in the 1920s when silent movie star Ben Turpin, famed for his cross eyes, took out a $20,000 policy against them uncrossing.

Since then there has been Ken Dodd and his teeth (£4 million), food critic Egon Ronay and his taste buds (£250,000), and chef Antony Worral Thompson and his fingers and tongue (£500,000 each).

The Mail said that rumours that Kylie Minogue and Jennifer Lopez have each insured their rear ends for around £500,000 have been denied.

Given that's its Easter I thought it would be fun to find an aromatic recipe for Spring Lamb which would leave Mr Gort in raptures. Rather than a traditional roast I have opted for a Turkish dish which has a wonderful scent.

Sultan's Delight (Hünkar Beğendi)

2 kg lamb, cut into large chunks
2 onions,
1 tbsp tomato purée
1 tbsp flour
pinch salt
6 tomatoes
1.5 litres water
1 tsp thyme
4 cloves garlic
2 bay leaves
½ tsp black pepper
1 pinch parsley stems

For the Aubergine Purée

10 aubergines
1 lemon
4 tbsp butter
tbsp flour
cup of milk
pinch of salt
1 cup Gruyère cheese, grated

Melt the butter in a saucepan. Add the lamb and roast for 10 mins. Add the sliced onions and the tomato purée, roast for a couple more minutes and add the flour. Put the thyme, garlic, bay leaves, pepper and parsley in a muslin bag. Add this to the meat, with the salt and water. Add the tomato chunks to the meat and cook for 10 – 15 mins over a low heat.

To make the Aubergine Purée, pierce the aubergines with a fork, place under the grill. Cook for half and hour, turning often until the skin blisters on all sides and the aubergine becomes soft.
Once the aubergine is cooled down, cut lengthways into 2, scoop out the pulp, squeeze out all the moisture and mash with a fork on a wooden board. Place the aubergine pulp into a bowl and add the lemon juice, and set aside. Place butter in a saucepan, add flour and cook over a low heat stirring constantly for 2-4 minutes. Add boiled milk and continue stirring for a couple more minutes. Add salt and pepper. Mix the aubergines together with this mixture. Add the cheese and mash until it turns into a paste. Pour the aubergine purée into a serving dish, make a hollow in the centre and arrange the meat in this hollow with a little of its own juice.

If you are wondering what wine to have with this meal then I would go for Château Puyanché which has received some great reviews in the press lately. It needs time to breathe so I would open it a couple of hours before the meal. Château Puyanché 2004 (£5.99) is made in the historic Côtes de Castillon which is now one of the most fashionable of all the Bordeaux satellites. It has been made by a family owned property since the turn of the century and is a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. The wine is a dark garnet in colour and has the aromas of blackberry and plum compotés, leather and spices. Château Puyanché is a supple and complex wine, well balanced and silky. It would please Mr Gort as it 's an aromatic wine and it will go well with lamb as well as tomato and aubergines.

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