Saint Julien, Cassoulet and Red Wine

Saint Julien lies on two plateaus between Pauillac and Margaux on the left bank of the Gironde Estuary. It is divided into essentially 2 areas - the riverside estates around the village of Saint Julien and the southern estates around the village of Beychevelle where the area's Cru Bourgeois are also grouped.

The waters of the Gironde Estuary have a warming influence on the climate which, coupled with the south easterly exposure of most vineyards, helps to fully ripen the Cabernet Sauvignon vines in this area. The terroir is very similar throughout Saint Julien - gravelly soils dominate and only the proximity of the estuary can cause slight variations in climate. In fact, Saint Julien's layer of glacial gravel takes the form of a huge rectangle over 3 miles long and 2 miles wide which sits on a limestone plateau. Saint Julien is a Cabernet Sauvignon commune. Blends of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon with around 20% Merlot and a bit of Cabernet Franc are not unusual.

Saint Julien has the highest proportion of classified estates of all the regions in Bordeaux – 11 in total. The quality is so good in Saint Julien, that second wines from those châteaux are very attractive. It is home to the 5 great second growths: Châteaux Ducru Beaucaillou, Léoville Poyferré, Léoville Barton, Gruard Larose and Léoville Las Cases and has a raft of high performing Châteaux in its ranks from 2ème (2nd Growths) to 4ème (4th Growths).

Saint Julien was once named Saint Julien de Rinhac (or Rignac) and was a Gallo Roman village. The village of Reignac lies exactly opposite Saint Julien on the other bank and it seems that these two Roman villages traded together. This may have some bearing on the name of Saint Julien as St Julien is the patron saint of travellers, boatmen and innkeepers. The legend goes that the Saint was once a great hunter and was told by a stag that he had cornered that he was destined to murder his parents. This came to pass and in penance St Julien built a hospice at the side of a dangerous river to give shelter to passengers attempting to cross it. The story continues that one stormy night the Saint helped a leper cross the river who proved to be Jesus Christ.

Beychevelle takes its name from the Gascon French “Baisse-Vaille” which means “lower sails” as the under Henri III the village of Beychevelle was the fief of the Dukes of Epernon and Château Beychevelle once belonged to the French Grand Admiral Jean-Louis Nogaret de la Valette. The galleons lowered their sails as they passed the Château as a sign of allegiance and the label on the chateau's wine symbolises this by depicting a ship with sails lowered. The Château's emblem is a ship with a prow in the shape of a griffin guarding the door of Dionysus' cellar.

Many people say that Saint Julien is the classic claret, robust, powerful and refined with a balance of perfume, structure and mineral fruit. Saint Julien combines the Médoc's best qualities – its wines have the elegance of Margaux, the power of Pauillac and the cedar and blackcurrant nose of Saint Estèphe. The wines age well and have the ability to develop for a decade or more.

The wines of Saint Julien pair well with French regional fayre and Cassoulet is a typical French dish containing meat (pork sausages, pork, goose, duck, lamb or and sometimes mutton), white haricot beans and often topped with a gratin of crunchy breadcrumbs. There are a thousand versions of Cassoulet and it can be as simple or as complicated as the cook prefers but either way it is a melt in the mouth experience and once tasted, never forgotten.

There are said to be a trinity of true Cassoulets: the Father, from Castelnaudary, where it is made with fresh and smoked pork products; the Son, from Carcassone, where partridge and mutton are preferred; and the Holy Ghost, from Toulouse where pork, sausage, lamb, and duck and goose confit is used.

One legend places the birth of Cassoulet during the siege of Castelnaudary by the Black Prince, Edward the Prince of Wales, in 1355. The Provost sought to prepare a dish with all the victuals from the town would give his besieged troops courage for a coming offensive. Finding plenty of beans, fresh and salted pork, geese, and sausages, the chef prepared a huge stewed dish and served it at a banquet along with barrels of the local wine. After the banquet the soldiers set off all their artillery and then rushed straight at their British enemies. The explosions were so loud and the soldiers so rowdy that the British fled in panic and didn't stop running until they reached the shores of the English Channel. Another story goes that long before the discovery of the Americas, in the 7th century, the Arabs introduced white beans to the French and taught the local people how to cook them in a sheep-based stew. Whichever story is correct, it is clear that cassoulet is an important part of regional French cooking, and a treat worth seeking out.

I have an Anglicized version of the Cassoulet for you to try making at home – you can add duck to it if you prefer a more gamey taste.

Cassoulet

450g belly pork, cut into strips
1 tbsp olive oil
450g pack of pork sausages (try Cumberland, garlic or sage-flavoured Lincolnshire varieties)
4 gammon steaks, cut into strips
400g can cannellini, haricot, butter or mixed beans , drained
1 large onion, chopped
4 medium carrots, chopped
400g can chopped tomatoes
pinch of dried thyme
pinch of dried sage
pinch of dried rosemary
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup dry white wine
1 pint chicken stock
25g fresh white breadcrumbs
2 garlic cloves

Heat oven to 180ºC/gas 4. Pan-fry the strips of pork belly in the oil, followed by the sausages and back bacon chops, until well browned. Mix together the herbs, seasoning, beans, onion, garlic, carrots and tomatoes in a bowl. Starting with a spoonful of the veg, inter-layer the vegetable mix and meats in a deep pan. Pour just enough chicken stock and white wine on top to almost cover, then bring to a simmer on top of the stove. Sprinkle the breadcrumbs over the top and cook in the oven for 1 – 2 hours until the meats are all tender and the top is golden brown. If the stock reduces while cooking, simply pour a little more on top to moisten. Remove from the oven and allow to settle for 5 mins before serving.

I think that I should mention the wines of Château Beychevelle as being great partners to this dish don't you? Not only is the Chateau one of the most beautiful properties of Bordeaux (it's nicknamed the “Versailles of Saint Julien”) but its wines are renowned for their suppleness, smoothness and rich, and sometimes chocolaty character. The best examples from Château Beychevelle vintages are powerful and concentrated, with a trace of sweetness from the ripe Cabernet grapes and can age effortlessly.

Another good choice are two of the Léoville estate chateaux: Château Léoville Barton is the third (and smallest) piece of the famous trio of Saint Julien properties that 200 years ago formed the estate of Château Léoville. It has been in the hands of the Barton family since 1826 who are of Irish descent and settled in Bordeaux in 1722. Hugh Barton was a founder of the negotiant Barton & Guestier in 1725 and it still bears his name to this day. At over 180 years this is the longest period of single-family ownership of any property in Bordeaux.

Château Léoville Barton's vineyards are located in the east of the Saint Julien appellation, lying close to the Gironde, sandwiched between the water and the huge expanse of vineyards belonging to Château Talbot. Léoville Barton is a tannic wine and appears austere in youth due to the high proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon. However time develops the classic cedary character that is the hallmark of St. Julien, along with intensely pure blackcurrant and cassis fruit notes.

Château Léoville Poyferrés vineyards lie, somewhat scattered, further to the west in the appellation of Saint Julien. Since the 1920's, it has been owned by the Medoc wine firm of Cuvelier et Fils. Léoville Poyferré traditionally produced the softest and most supple wine of the 3 Léovilles (the other being Chateau Léoville Las Cases). Léoville Poyferré's wines have a great balance between alcohol, acidity and tannins thanks to the terroir. The wines are aromatic, complex, elegant and velvety. The rich flavours are of cherry fading through to an earthy mushroom in the older vintages.

At a more pocket pleasing price I'd choose to go with this dish from our range of wines is Chateau Les Graves de Barrau (£4.89) which is a traditional claret from an estate that has been famous for centuries and which is located 18 km to the north of Bordeaux. Set high up on a south-facing plateau, the vineyard benefits from an exceptional position giving the grapes excellent ripeness. The Musset family has been on this estate for several generations and Serge Musset took over in 1966. With all the savoir-faire of his ancestors, he grows the vines in the traditional way and makes his wine slowly and patiently.

Château Les Graves de Barrau is made from a strict selection of the best vats; this selection is carried out directly by Dominique Hébrard (of Chateau Cheval Blanc fame) during the blending process. This wine has lots of finesse and all the characteristics of a great Bordeaux: well-balanced tannins, marked by the expressive fruitiness of the terroir. It's a good crimson colour and has lovely aromas of cherry with a very fine hint of vanilla.