Graves de Vayres, the Borgias and Wine

Graves de Vayres runs along the Dordogne River across from Saint Emilion and contrary to expectations from its name is unrelated to the Graves appellation. It produces both red and white wine and takes its name from the commune of Vayres and the gravelly soils (graves) on which it lies. Thanks to the Dordogne, which is very wide here, the Graves de Vayres enjoys a temperate effect during the summer and it is also protected by the Tertre de Fronsac on the opposite bank.

The grapes grown are Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec for the reds and Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Muscadelle for the whites. The red wines are delicate and fine with notes of raspberry, cherry, blackcurrant and blackberry. The whites are fresh and elegant with notes of hazelnut, citrus, pear and peach. The AOC encompasses both the communes of Vayres and Arveyres with vineyards lying on gravel terraces and sandy clays nearer the meander in the Dordogne.

Arveyres lies on an ancient marsh that was drained in the seventeenth century but the town is known for its Knights Templar connections dating back to 1170. A Commandery of the Order of Malta was established north of the town over looking the Dordogne. The Commandery is located on a magnificent site of about four hectares and was run originally as a farm. All that remains now are the ruins of the Commandery and its wine cellars – a testament to the ancient viticulture in the area.

In the mid-nineteenth century, the red and white wines of Graves de Vayres were highly thought of with Cocks and Feret (the classic reference work on Bordeaux wines in the 1800s) quoting “Without attempting to rival the Médoc or Saint Emilion, red wines of Graves Vayres are still full of delicacy. The first wines are highly sought after trade for their body and smoothness and can be classified among the best wines of the Right Bank, immediately after the second wines of Pomerol.”

Today there are about 40 wine makers in Graves de Vayres and chateaux to look out for are: Chateaux Juncarret, Beaumard, La Chappelle Bellevue, La Pontête (owned by André Giraud of the Saint Emilion Grand Cru La Tour du Pin Figeac), Lesparre, Cantelaudette, Montifaut, Petit Puch, Goudichaud and Toulouze.

Vayres is not only renowned for its wines but it is also an ancient and proud city. It was founded in Roman times on a rocky outcrop overlooking the confluence of the Rivers Gestas and the Dordogne. The Imperial Way lay near to the Roman fort (oppidum) linking Bordeaux to Perigueux and the Emperor Octavius understood the strategic importance of this place. He established a garrison there under the command of Varius, who became Vayres' namesake. Dominating the Dordogne, over the axis of communication with the centre of France, the site of Vayres was of great importance for the defence of Bordeaux. It grew into a Barony and then a Marquisate and in like manner the fort became Chateau de Vayres - one of the most significant of Guyenne.

In 1288 the chateau and lands were given as a dowry to Amanieu VII d'Albret, who became the Seigneur des Vayres. In 1326 Bérard d’Albret took the side of England in the struggle for control of the region. He received financial support from King Edward II of England, and turned the chateau into a large fortress. The château was badly damaged during the Hundred Years War and its successive owners switched back and forth between the French and English sides.
In 1499 it was given by marriage to Cesare Borgia, whose daughter then restored it to Henri d'Albret, King of Navarre and the grandfather of the future King of France, Henry IV, in 1535. Henry IV inherited the house through his mother, Jeanne d'Albret and he stayed in the chateau several times. Cesare Borgia was a member of the infamous Borgia family of Italy - he was the son of Pope Alexander VI and his long-term mistress Vannozza dei Cattanei and brother to Lucrezia Borgia. Cesare Borgia was greatly admired by Niccolò Machiavelli, who used many of Borgia's exploits and tactics as examples in his book The Prince.

Today the chateau is classified as an official historical monument of France, and the gardens are listed as among the Notable Gardens of France by the Committee of Parks and Gardens of the French Ministry of Culture.

Considering the Borgias link to Vayres I think a recipe for Tagliatelle is rather apt as it was invented by an Italian cook from Bologna who was in love with her blond braids. In 1487 Giovanni II di Bentivoglio, at that time a lord of Bologna, asked for his personal chef, Mastro Zefirano, to organize a masterful dinner in honour of Lucrezia Borgia, to be held in his city. The beautiful Lucrezia was travelling to Ferrara at the time to marry the Duke Alfonso D’Este. In only 39 years of life, the beautiful Lucrezia Borgia had three husbands, an uncountable number of lovers, eight legitimate children and one born outside marriage. It is said that she invented a powerful poison contained in a ring and was undoubtedly one of the most intriguing people of the European Renaissance.

Smoked Salmon Tagliatelle

300 g tagliatelle
salt and freshly ground black pepper
150 ml cream
200 g smoked salmon, cut into small strips
8 fresh chives, snipped
lengths of fresh chives to garnish

Cook the pasta in a large saucepan of lightly salted boiling water for 8–10 minutes, or according to the packet instructions, until al dente. Meanwhile, heat the cream gently in a small saucepan. Season sparingly with salt. Drain the pasta, tip into a serving dish and add the salmon and cream. Toss to mix. Grind over some pepper, sprinkle with the chives and serve at once with some lengths of chives for garnish.

Château Smith Haut Lafitte (£30 - £40 a bottle dependant on the vintage) would be a superb choice to pair with this dish. Smith Haut Lafitte was owned by the noble Bosq family who grew grapes there as early as 1365. The white wines of Smith Haut Lafitte are rich, complex and well balanced with aromas of peaches and grilled fruit. The flavours are typically Sauvignon Blanc gooseberry and hay with lemon and quince.

M De Malle (£11.73) is another good choice it is a dry White Graves wine originating in the vineyards of Château de Malle, owned by the Comtes de Bournazel who have 400 years of wine making experience. This wine won the Hachette des Vins 2007 Coup de Coeur and is a beautiful, bold, brilliant green tinted gold with hints of white blossoms, exotic fruits, spice and good lemon acidity.

Lastly, but by no means least, I would recommend Chateau Saint Thibeaud (£5.19) which is a lovely crisp Bordeaux white predominantly made from the Sauvignon Blanc grape. This wine boasts a lovely pale golden colour with dominant and very refreshing hints of pear and citrus fruits. On the palate it reveals a rounded, clean attack on the mouth with a good balance of fruit and dryness and the finish has gorgeous touches of lemon.

Enjoy!