Bordeaux Wine Tourism, Wine Holidays and Opening Doors

It has always puzzled me that Bordeaux is world famous for its wines but still has so much yet to discover. Tourists will flock to well known sites lured by the historic châteaux and superb wines secreted in their cellars but there are charming backwaters to Bordeaux that are also hiding away. Unlike California with its bustling wine routes and open house wineries much of Bordeaux – and many of its wines - lie undiscovered – unless you are French, and in the “know”.

This is one of the reasons I covered the lesser known appellations of Bordeaux in a series of Blogs recently – to show you a peep of the Bordeaux that can be discovered if you have a questing spirit and like finding wonderful wines in sleepy villages. I have noticed that some of the appellations are starting to set up websites to promote their wines and will add a set of links to them on the Blog and Wine Site for you.

Now that the prohibitionist Evin Law is more relaxed about advertising alcohol on the internet the châteaux and co-operatives have a vast platform from which to promote their goods. Until recently those that did have websites were concerned that they would be forced to remove their sites – many of which are informative and give a cultural and historical background to the wines and their producers. This law was outrageously severe in a country where the “passion” for wine is intense. (see France To Ban Wine On The Internet). As the nature of French wine production is that it is smaller, lead by terroir and more individualistic, many wine makers don't have the money or the clout to broadcast their wares outside France.

I hope that we will see more syndicats de viticole and châteaux starting up websites as it's a fantastic way of opening a door into the world of wine. Talking of opening doors I have also noticed that many more châteaux are opening theirs to the public – which is another great step forward. Some of Bordeaux's prestigious Châteaux are starting to appear in Travel Agencies offering wine orientated holidays such as Château Smith Haut Lafitte in Pessac-Leognan. Smith Haut Laffitte is not only famous for the fabulous wines it produces but it also has a luxury hotel, a Michelin star restaurant and the Caudalie wine therapy institute at the château. Also last year Chateau Cantenac Brown in Margaux received preliminary permission to turn part of the château into a luxury hotel.

The Telegraph has reported on two leading Bordeaux wine makers – Jean-Francois Janoueix and Jean-Michel Cazes – who are leading the way in reviving tourism in Bordeaux by rejuvenating the past. Rather than let the abandoned hamlets around the châteaux die they are breathing new life into them to encourage visitors.

The family of Jean-Francois Janoueix is one of the great household names of the Libourne area; they are as well known for making wine as for being wine merchants. They own the Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classé Chateau Haut Sharpe as well as 16 other châteaux spangled across Pomerol and the Côtes de Castillon. It's Jean-Francois' belief that the villages and hamlets that cluster round the châteaux need to be reborn:

"The great wine estates don't care about these modest homes, but they are the markers of the past. When we demolish them, we gain a few vines but lose a whole piece of the past."

Determined to keep the rural heritage alive, he's personally financing the renovation of the rustic hamlet of Sarpe at the gates of his estate. True to his vision, the village steps back in time - guests can visit an 18th century windmill and the 1950's "night club" built for the pickers. In Haut Sarpe's cellars, Jean-Francois offers wine tastings amidst a collection of antique tools and equipment. A few steps away, a farmhouse provides room and board to modern-day pilgrims walking the historic St. Jacques de Compostella pilgrim route, and soon, an old-fashioned bakery will open on the square.

Banking on another winning combination - wine and art – Jean-Francois also restored the winegrowers' cottages in his vineyards. Soon, artists will take up short-term residencies and sell their work in a gallery in the village. Inspired by Napa's savvy approach to wine tourism, he hopes to draw tourists to Sarpe, where he can introduce them to a slice of wine history, art and his wines.

In Pauillac, the owner of Chateau Lynch Bages, Jean Michel Cazes, has also encouraged tourism to the region. In addition to several wine estates, the Cazes family owns a luxury hotel, two Michelin-starred restaurants, a wine estate bed & breakfast, a wine school and a wine tour agency.

In 2003, when Cazes needed to enlarge his cellars and the architect proposed demolishing the abandoned hamlet of Bages, located on his back doorstep, Cazes refused: "I didn't want to see the village disappear, I didn't want to be remembered as the man who knocked down a village to stock my wine."

Instead, he hired craftsmen to restore the historical limestone buildings with the goal of creating a modern village that would attract both locals and tourists. Cazes' vision has taken shape: a pretty village square, a bakery, a stylish bistro, a refined boutique, a master basket-weaver, an annex to a luxury hotel, a butcher and soon, an upscale wine bar and cigar lounge. A cheerful playground attracts mothers and toddlers. Free, open-air movie nights bring in the locals. And the buildings retain the names of the original owners.
For information on other Bordeaux châteaux that cater for tourists click here.