Red Wine and Fish

The debate over whether it is sacrilegious to pair red wine with fish has long been argued over but now researchers have pinpointed why some reds just don't go – and why some do! Researchers in Fujisawa, Japan noted that wine connoisseurs established the rule of thumb because of the flavour clash between red wine and fish. They point out, however, that there are exceptions to the rule, with some red wines actually going well with seafood. Until now, nobody could consistently predict which wines might trigger a fishy after-taste because of the lack of knowledge about its cause. The study is in ACS' Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry.

The scientists asked wine tasters to sample 38 red wines and 26 white wines while dining on scallops. Some of the wines contained small amounts of iron, which varied by country of origin, variety, and vintage. They found that wines with high amounts of iron had a more intensely fishy after-taste. This fishy taste diminished, on the other hand, when the researchers added a substance that binds up iron. The findings indicate that iron is the key factor in the fishy after-taste of wine-seafood pairings, the researchers say, suggesting that low-iron red wines might be a good match with seafood.

When the iron content rose above 2 milligrams per litre or so, the seafood-dining experience turned sour. The team double-checked their results by soaking pieces of dried scallops in samples of wine. Scallops dunked in wine with low iron content smelled normal, but pieces soaked in samples with high iron content reeked of fish.

The researchers report that they haven't yet isolated the compound in the scallops that reacts with the wine, but they suspect it's an unsaturated fatty acid, which could be breaking down rapidly and releasing the decaying fish smell when exposed to iron. How much iron a wine contains depends on the amount in the soil where the grapes were grown, as well as other factors such as how the grapes are harvested and processed. Red wine tends to have a higher iron content, hence the admonition against mixing it with seafood.

"We were surprised in our finding," said research chemist and lead author Takayuki Tamura, "because we thought that polyphenols or sulphur dioxide [produced] the unpleasant sensation." These components represent a larger percentage of wine content than does iron. He explains that because iron does not "induce colour change, accelerated oxidation, or cloudiness," vintners tend to ignore its potential role as a meal-spoiler. But the new findings, he says, offer winemakers the opportunity to reconsider the downside of iron contamination.

I would recommend lighter styles of red wine with a low alcohol content as a good match with fish such as tuna or salmon. Brissonet Tinto (£3.08) is 11.5% and this Spanish red is a fresh and aromatic wine, concentrated with no acidity and its cherry red colour with violet bloom are typical of its youth. Prince de Prieur (£3.18) is also 11.5% and if this wine was from any other region or country it would come with a higher Classification other than a table wine. It is a supple wine and has a very pronounced nose with lots of good ripe fruit.

Rosé wines also go well with fish – Chateau Lamothe Vincent (£4.94) is 12.5% and is a fabulous dry, deep, dark pomegranate pink, bursting with fruit and is one of the 3 best Bordeaux Rosés in 2006 TOP VINS, silver medal winner both at the Challenge International du Vin 2006 and Concours des Vins d'Aquitaine 2006. It is made with two grapes - Cabernet Sauvignon which gives tannic backbone and structure. This grape is very aromatic in young wines with heady aromas of blackcurrant. Cabernet Franc is the other grape used and this provides acidity, fragrance and strawberry-like fruit qualities. Once the fruit has hit your taste buds the dryness follows through and the wine is elegant and refreshing. Chateau Roques du Mauriac (£6.40) is 12.5% and is made from Merlot 60%, Cabernet Franc 40% . Produced right in the heart of the region this lovely mouth-watering, crisp, slightly dry, smooth Rose is a delight. On the nose it produces light, fruity aromas of soft fruits and in the mouth it is fresh, well balanced and has a long after taste.

I would try these two rosés with white fish and shell fish as they are a lighter style than the Bordeaux Clairets which will stand up to mackerel and tuna very well.